Every now and then you’re going to have to lube your chain*. It’s basic maintenance, and the same applies for your gear. Even though it’s made to battle the elements, you still have to give it some love every once in a while.
*you can skip this when you’re part of the cardan or belt-driven club
It begins with storing your gear. Let it hang in a well-ventilated environment. Don’t put your gear away wet, first let it air out. You don’t want to get mould growing in the fabric, trust us. If you use a cooling vest, take special care to get all the moisture out before putting it away.
Before storing your leather suit for the winter, it is advised to use Leather Wash to keep the leather healthy and supple.
In any case, you should first consult the washing instructions on the label of your product before washing. But generally speaking, you can machine-wash many of our textile-based products, though it requires a bit of preparation:
Do not use fabric softener, this will impair the breathability of the membrane.
You probably guessed it: it’s not a good idea to put your leather suit in the washing machine. It won’t end well for either your suit or your machine. So how do you get the dirt and dismembered insects off your gear?
Do not use cleaning products that contain solvents.
Even though you use your gear as intended and maintain it very well, the fabrics will slowly deteriorate over time. We call this wear and tear; damage that naturally and inevitably occurs as a result of normal wear or aging. Below you can find some key points per category to give you a better idea.
Wear and tear will not be accepted under warranty, nor will the following occurrences:
Zippers are the most used parts in motorcycle gear. If there is a defect located in the zipper then this will present itself on short notice, usually within a couple times usage.
In the vast majority of cases with broken zippers, we see that the runner has bitten itself into the fabric. If the runner and fabric are pulled instead of separated carefully, the runner will tear the fabric or teeth of the zipper and cause user damage.
The most common areas for wear and tear to occur on a jacket are the more dynamic areas, such as the wrist and the pivoting point of the arm.
Backpacks can also be a cause of wear and tear, especially when they are fully loaded. The weight of the bag puts stress on the straps, which can damage the fabric at the point where they meet.
The dynamic areas on pants are the crotch and the seating area. The crotch is subject to stress when (dis)mounting the motorcycle. Without the proper maintenance this can lead to leakages. The area around the ankle can also deteriorate faster, mainly among riders who wear boots.
We all know that the palms of the hands are subjected to wear and tear. Aside from the palm, the area around the thumb and index finger can deteriorate faster as well. Did your gloves get wet? Make sure to let them dry fully and avoid placing them directly on a heated surface.
Be careful when fastening the velcro’s. The stronger part that holds onto the softer part is able to damage fabrics.
Probably! Check the store locator.
Unfortunately, this is not possible. But your local retailer would be happy to advise you! Check the store locator to find a retailer close to you.
SPECS. Back in 1990, the first gloves with an innovative membrane were sold from the trunk of a car. We soon found out that specs are a win-win-win situation. Challenging to develop, easy to sell and innovative added value to ride with.
By thinking practical and out of the box, our specs are the main drive behind our vision: Be the most inspirational motorcycle clothing brand in the world – with our own and unique identity.
A protective motorcycle jacket is nice. A protective jacket with Night Eye, Easy Cuff, Belt Loop, Centrack Waist and -Sleeve, Vision Vest Slits, Heavy Duty Coathanger, Raintex Direct Laminate, Hoodie Holder, Zip-Grip and Electric Power Guide – just to name a few – That’s what we call riding gear!
We get many requests and can’t concede with all of them. But if you can show us why we should, then give it a try: marketing (at) macna.com. You never know.
This depends on the intensity of your use and if you treat/store it well (see maintenance). If you commute every day in all weather conditions, your jacket won’t last as long compared to somebody who only rides on sunny weekends. In a best case scenario, you can get 5 to 7 years out of a textile jacket. Leather can last even longer – if it is greased properly.
For the long-haulers: don’t forget to inspect the protectors after a couple of years. The material can become increasingly brittle when you use them for too long, which greatly affects their effectiveness. You can, however, order new ones separately.
Our products are warranted for a period of 2 years, against any defects in material or production. This means it does not include: any damage from accidents, wrong maintenance, custom modifications to the product, or normal wear and tear.
Always take your claim to the point of purchase – and don’t forget the receipt.
Unfortunately, this is what UV-radiation does to colour. After hours and hours of riding outside in the sun, the exposure to (sun)light changes the bonds of the chemicals, causing the colour to fade slowly. You can see this especially in fluorescent colours.
Since 2018, all motorcycle garments sold within the European Union have to comply with the European Norm because they’re classified as PPE; Personal Protection Equipment. That’s nothing new, you might think, as you’ve probably seen CE-logos in older gear as well. However, these only referred to the protectors themselves, rather than the garment as a whole. As if this wasn’t confusing enough, some manufacturers used this loophole to market their products as safer than they actually were.
How shady is that?
Time for a change. The new CE legislations require all garments to be tested at a notified body and survive certain values of abrasion resistance and impact protection. And rest assured; all of our gear meets or exceeds the European Norms.
The strong, abrasive-resistant (often yellow-coloured) lining of hoodies and jeans is called Aramid fibre. Only difference with Kevlar fibre is… the name. It’s a trademark thing.
Hoodies have become really popular in recent years. At a high-speed crash, there’s no denying that full-fledged leather gear would protect you better than a lightweight hoodie. However, there are still many people who ride their bike around town without any proper gear at all. Be it for cosmetic, practical, geographical or financial reasons – they rather ride in a t-shirt, you know? You can’t change the way people think, but you can at least offer a basic level of safety that appeals to everybody. Hoodies fill that gap.
We generally advise against re-using gear after a crash, because sometimes damage can be hidden beneath the surface. As a rule of thumb, check if seams and fabric surfaces are all intact and the protectors are still in place. If you’re not sure, visit your local retailer for a professional opinion.
With the exception of AAA (triple A) products, back protectors are not mandatory. If it’s not an absolute must, we are happy to save you some money. For the ones who don’t have a spare back laying around, all jackets are back protector prepared.
The protectors move on a centre piece, which is fixed in the pants with velcro. Our jeans have a pocket with sub-pockets which differ in position so that you’re able to place the protection lower or higher, depending on what fits best for you.
It does indeed; a regular piece of shoulder protection will protect the shoulder where it connects the arm to the upper body. However, the largest area of your shoulder is located at the back, which is not protected at all! With our new self-developed protection, this is an issue of the past.
Night Eye seems to be a very neat feature, but isn’t it possible for the reflection to come off?
Like any fabric, Night Eye will become dirty over time, which may reduce the effectiveness of the beads. All it requires in this case is a good rub with a wet cloth.
The price of a jacket is based on many factors such as the amount of layers, zippers and other options. Most important is the fabric of which it is made. Textile will pass the needed tests but it will never be able to compete with leather or super-fabric.
Therefore it does provide the needed resistance, although it will never be able to compete with leather or super-fabric.
The goal, obviously, is to be seen. If your vest is just as yellow as ours, you are probably safe! However, our Vision Tech and Vision Vest N can be attached to your Macna jacket, keeping it nicely and tightly fitted and preventing Superman-ish situations.
Starting in 2018, all motorcycle gear needs to be tested and certified. This goes for Macna as well and rest assured; all models included in our range meet the needed requirements.
Usually, a waterproof membrane is a loose layer inside your jacket. When a jacket (or pants, or even gloves) are direct laminated, the membrane is attached to the outer shell. This means that there’s no space in between those two layers. This way, the jacket won’t suck itself full of water. It helps in keeping weight down, staying warm, and shortening the drying time afterwards.
All membranes will block water, but let vapor through. Breathability is needed to get rid of vapor from the inside. It wants to go to the other side of the membrane where there is less humidity.
However, a membrane has no idea about front and back. Under certain circumstances the membrane will actually work the other way around. For instance, it can happen on your seat, where water remains. You can get the feeling your gear is leaking, while it’s actually the membrane doing its job.
Yes, it is. The waterproof liner is always connected (3-layer) or directly attached (2-layer) to the outer shell. The outer shell might take in some water, but as long as you stay dry; the waterproof liner (or direct laminate) is doing its job.
Depends on the style of your gear and the circumstances. Touring/adventure gear? Inside the sleeve. Especially when it’s wet – otherwise the water will actually run down into your gloves. However, if we’re talking racing/sports gear: outside.
Hang to dry in a well-ventilated room. Don’t fold it away wet, and avoid putting it in the dryer, unless the label explicitly allows it.
Check our maintenance page, there are a few tips on getting your gear clean again.
At the moment, this is not possible.
A motorcycle jacket usually consists of 3 layers; the outer layer, a waterproof membrane and the inner (thermal) liner.
A 3-layer jacket lets you take out the layers you don’t need at any given time. The inner liner can be zipped to the membrane and the membrane to the outer layer. It is not possible to take out the membrane and zip the inner liner to the outer layer.
In a 2-layer jacket, the membrane is fixed against the outer layer, making those two layers basically one. You are ensured to stay dry, though in warmer weather ventilation is limited.
There is also a hybrid variant of the 2-layer jacket which works the other way around: the inner liner is fixed and the waterproof membrane can be taken out.
Last but certainly not least, there is direct laminate. In this case, the waterproof layer and the outer layer are bonded together and become one. The seams are taped on the inside of the garment, making it guaranteed waterproof. Thé way to go if you’re a daily commuter.
If you’re asking if we make our gear waterproof by directly laminating the waterproof layer against the outer layer; yes we do! We don’t use this technology in all of our gear, so be sure to check the specifications of the product you have in mind to see if it is directly laminated.
Because Gore-Tex is a brand and not a technology. However, Direct Laminate – the technology that ensures you to stay dry – is used in some of our gear.
Looking for directly laminated gear? Check the Raintex-DL box in the Technology filter when browsing the collection.
We were hoping you could tell us! There are many different ways to test if a garment is waterproof but none of these ways give an undisputable verdict. Because there are so many possibilities to creatively fabricate numbers that make a product look good, the actual meaning behind the numbers has dropped significantly.
If the real question is whether or not you’ll stay dry in Macna gear; yes, guaranteed!
Technically, it is possible. In a way, motorcycle gear has the same characteristics as snowboard- or skiing gear. It protects you against low temperatures, wet environments and of course yourself.
Minor detail; motorcycle gear is designed to be worn in one particular stance, and therefore it might limit your freedom of movement when you’re out on the slopes.
Aside from flashy colours there’s only one thing that makes you stand out even more; Night Eye! During such weather there are few to no people out on the road without their lights on. This benefits the functioning of the Night Eye fabric and therefore your safety.
For the riders who are zig-zagging rapidly because they are shivering, we offer the option to heat nearly any body part. Multiple batteries? Not necessarily; with E.P.G. you are able to use only one power supply.
E.P.G. stands for Electric Power Guide. Different pieces of Macna heated gear can be connected to each other with the use of a cable. This/these cable(s) run through loops between the liner and outer layer in order to keep them from moving around and working on your nerves.
Still not a big fan of cables? Or is 12V a little too hot? Dual Power Technology enables you to switch to a 12V or 7,4V battery with the flick of a wrist (not literally – not yet)
The biggest difference between Macna and other brands are the connectors. For this reason it is not possible to connect products of other brands when purchasing them.
It is possible to purchase the connectors separately and make the needed adjustments in order to connect what you would like, though this is strongly discouraged with your warranty and safety in mind.
That couldn’t be more true, hence the title of our campaign; “CAUTION! HOT GEAR!”
Connecting a 12V battery, selecting the highest heating level and then riding off is therefore discouraged, as the maximum amount of heat is not meant for every rider. Before hitting the road, we advise to test your gear to find out what level works best for you.
Easy-peasy; fill the vest with 600 centilitres of (tap) water and close it well. Roll up the vest gently in order to spread the water through the entire vest. Roll out the vest and it’s ready to be worn.
Through the use of patented technology, the available water evaporates in a regulated manner. Unlike conventional vests that use similar cooling techniques, this vest remains dry on both the inside and outside. The duration of use is also many times longer thanks to the efficient regulation of the evaporation process – How cool is that?
Keep in mind that in order to cool, the vest needs air flow passing through. To enjoy your cooling vest to the fullest, we advise to wear a jacket with a lot of ventilation, like a mesh jacket.
Done riding? Hang the vest somewhere to dry so that the moisture can leave the vest before it causes any mould!
Generally speaking, our gear has a Euro fit (slightly more tapered and close than, for instance, US fit). Check the size charts if you’re not sure which size to get, or visit your local retailer.
Ill-fitting gear can compromise its effectiveness. The best way is to get yourself measured up and check the size charts. You can do this at home, or at your local retailer. It’s also important to try out the gear by sitting on a bike or mimicking that stance, rather than standing upright.
The material will need some time to loosen up and form around you. Especially leather, and gloves, can feel stiff in the beginning. Keep this is mind when fitting for the first time.
Of course we do! Look for the S(hort) or L(ong) in front of the size when checking the label or website.
A base layer works two ways: keeps you warmer when it’s cold and cooler when it’s warm – It’s a kind of magic. Most important when it comes to a baselayer is the fabric. Synthetic (breathable) is the way to go and cotton is what you want to avoid.
Depends on your goals. The 2-piece is more practical for day-to-day-use, and will serve you well for a track day now and then. But if you’re getting serious about track riding, you’ll be better off with a 1-piece suit. Talk to your local Macna retailer so they can help you choose.
Most of our jackets have a short or long connection zipper (or both, in some cases) – to be sure, you can check the product specifications. It’s a fairly universal zipper size, so if your pants didn’t cheap out on zippers, you’re probably fine.
For the less lucky among us, we’ve developed the Backonnect to solve that issue.
This way the layers are truly fixed and don’t hang like a marionette, held up by the outer layer. At the wrist, Easy Cuff creates a nice and tidy fit, making annoying loops and snaps pressing into your arm a thing of the past. That’s Macna DNA; improvements with a purpose.
Close, but not quite. Airscoop is a unique layered construction in the membrane. This construction enables cool air to pass through whilst blocking rainwater. Without Airscoop, ventilation zippers are useless as the cool air isn’t able to pass through and have a cooling effect.
With the buckle of the wrist strap placed in an ergonomically optimized place - under a 30 degree angle - the wrist has more freedom, raising your comfort.
That depends on the construction of the product; if it contains direct laminate it is not possible. Textile clothing, however, is safe to enrich with your own logo or name.